It's all bryan's fault...

So Bryan (bkubisht), informed me of a 1991 22re out of a 2wd auto with 150k.  I picked up the motor for a clean $100.



Sitting beside it is my Craigslist motor that I paid $250 for, that is buggered due to running without thrust washers.

First off I'm surprised at how complete the motor is, they pretty much pulled and cut or pinched off any thing that came off the block, but otherwise PS pump, exh manifold, intake manifold and injectors, even vacuum switching valves and such.  Second it has a ton of corrosion for a 91.   My 84 spent 10 years of it life on the coast of SC, and has no where near the corrosion of this motor.  Hood was still on the truck, so not sure where it came from.

So at this point I figure that even if it's a dud I can part it out, maybe rebuild parts and maybe break even on the cost of the motor.  Drain the oil...  Outside of a lot of sludge and some very very dirty oil, it had a full tank of oil.  Pull the oil pan...



Seems that this motor hasn't been worked on, since I'm assuming that the sealant on the pan is factory.  There are stamping on the connecting rods, but nothing on the crank...  And the crank feels tight, havent broken out the dial indicator, but I'm feeling that everything is still tight on this motor.  Note no timing chain pieces in oil pan!



So now to check on the valvetrain...



And outside of the sludge, timing rails intact, no obvious damage to valvetrain.  And i pulled a plug and at least that #1 looked real good, no fouling or burning.

So next thing on my list is to do a compression check before I pull the head (need a comp tester).  I'm kinda thinking if the compression check is good, maybe not to even mess with pulling the head and just go straight to work on integrating it into my 4runner?  Btw can I replace the timing chain cover / water pump without pulling the head?  The water outlet has a chunk missing...

So I think I have a good motor here...  What would ya'll suggest I check / upgrade / maintenance while it's on my engine stand?

I'm surprised you didn't find pieces of the plastic timing chain guides in the oilpan. The single row timing chain 22R/RE series engines in 4x4s are on borrowed time after about 100K; 2WDs often hold out another 50K or so.  (I have a friend that put 300K on his 2WD before replacing the timing chain, but he drives like an old man...) It's a good sign there's no RTV 'goop' nor timing chain guide parts in the pan,  but I would put on a new timing chain at the very least before trying to run it. 

I just had another idea you could check.  Take some of the oil and send it off to be analyzed for heavy metals, coolant, etc.  It costs about $20 including postage, worth every penny for something like you have there.

bluetoy wrote: Looks like a good motor to me. Nice find.   Just curious though, why on earth would you want megasquirt injection on a 22re ?

For the most part because it would be unique and i would learn a lot.  But the way I am going to do it, I would get rid of the AFM for a MAP system, and go to a Ford EDIS wasted spark system.  Still have to understand how it all works with EGR and air injection and such.  Bryan and I would be doing the ignition the same way - mine on an 22re, his on his hybrid 22/20r.

That, and by the end of it, if I get it working good I will be very good at spotting and fixing engine problems without relying on counting flashes of the CEL.

jarmumd wrote: ...But you can still very clearly see the cross-hatching, which seems strange to me after 130k...

Picts as promised...

Cylinder #1


Cylinders #2 and #3


Rocker pads


Valve stem (typical)


So looking at all the things you suggested Bryan, so far so good.  Doesn't seem to be much scoring up and down the cylinder walls, but as the first picture shows, there's some corrosion and tactile pitting around the circumference.  Rocker arm pads all look good, doesn't seem like the cam is worn, I don't think the engine was ever run without oil (may not have been changed often).  Valves look like they are rotating, of the four I looked at, they all looked the same as the one above, and that looks to me like a valve that's rotating.

oh... my parts bin from this motor...


and parts from various other purchases to this point...   yea... need to get rid of this stuff...lol...



Edited by jarmumd - 11 November 2010 at 5:58pm

My 85 has a 93ish engine in it, but the truck was fuel injected from the factory. It uses the stock harness and ecm, but some of the connectors have been spliced for the newer sensors ect. (and some stuff doesn't work right because of it)

Awesome, I love frankenstein toyotas. I'll have to put a picture up of what I have on mine. It did have one of those flexible corregated generic tubes on it but it leaked air and ran like crap.

So I finally snapped some pictures of the "new" hotness...



Now, strangely enough, all the intake hoses are actually pretty happy like this, however...



Yea no...  the boot is for the older intake which should be pointed down...  I think the newer intake boot might work...  and a turbo boot might work... I'm looking into it...

Here is the old motor, she was a great engine and will be (kinda) missed...



So getting back to the issues at hand, here is the issue with the intake and radiator hose, although I think it's an issue since I got a 87 radiator hose instead of an 85 (don't ask, I don't know why I did that...)



The 95 harness is a dream to work with so far, the engine, ignition, afm, O2 sensor are all on the same harness, and it comfortably went around the engine bay...



The boot into the firewall for the ecu is a little shorter than I would like, but I think it will work fine, but I will have to see what's behind it...  I hate dash work...



Lots of details to go, and lots of potential issues since some stuff was hopes and dreams (like connecting a different knock sensor to the original wire without shielding...)  So we will see...  Oh and whereas most have their charcoal canister by the firewall, mine won't fit (it's lower than efi), but carb motors had a second one near the front of the engine bay for the carb bowl vent, so I think I'm going to move the fuel charcol canister into that location.

Doc, I eventually want to do the same thing that you did (really I just need to build the bracket), but as it happens I have an extra valve cover from DRM with two of those VSV's, so have at it, you want me to bring them by the meeting next thurs?




Edited by jarmumd - 29 June 2011 at 8:18am

The hose part number I used is Dayco B70815, it's the same one listed for an 85 and 87 4runner. There is only one radiator option for the 87, but several for an 85. But since they all use the same top hose it should work, maybe I trimmed an inch or so off mine so it would fit right. I forget. Anyway maybe this helps.

And no making fun of my ratrod car tag fan shroud fix. (At least that tag came off another toyota truck)

So I was running my fuel line last night (thanks Bryan!), and I'm not sure I have it right.  Can someone post pictures of their fuel line routing?  Specifically near the e-brake assembly.  Thanks!

You can come look at how mine is routed if you want.

So onto the electrical side of things...

I'm thinking of using the emissions relay from my 22r as my EFI relay.  It previously powered the Carburated Mixture Heater (CMH).  There are also two open fuse holders, which I'm going to use for my two EFI fuses as well.





I think that I'm going to tie into the ST1, IGN1, IGN2, AM1, and AM2 here:



Finally, they left me a hole in the mat to show me exactly where the harness goes!


Had to remove the a/c and fan to get to it!



Still need to figure out what I'm going to do for a starter relay, I'm thinking of using either a a/c relay I have lying around, or a horn relay.  And how do I get the gauge cluster off?  Looks like the speedo cable is still attached, how do I get to it?


Edited by jarmumd - 11 July 2011 at 2:18pm

i'll think about the gauge pod, mines an SR5 (has tach), so no need to look for it.  That's actually been a recent revelation, that the 92 motor only came with a low oil pressure switch, whereas my 22r came with the pressure transducer and a low pressure switch.  Only recently have i realized which was which.

Was on vacation last week, hopefully soon!  I'll need to borrow someone's welder soon so that I can put the O2 sensor mount on.

So last night I did some temporary wiring to try and understand everything Nick has told me.  Through trial and mostly error I was able to get the fuel pump to kick on.  I'm still waiting on my ECU to come in, so I focused on making sure the fuel pump worked as it was suppose to, so I wired up parts of the EFI relay as well, and found out that I have a bad ground in my harness somewhere.  Basically the AFM switch which grounds out the COR isn't grounding, and it isn't the AFM, I used the harness directly and it didn't work.  But the diagnostic does work...  So I'm not sure what's next, but I probably haven't connected up all the engine grounds yet, so I'll start there.

It'd be nice to get a new bulb for the EFI warning light, but for right now I just pulled the seatbelt caution light since mine is only a temporary at startup anyways, so I don't think I'll ever notice it.

Hope to have picts of the wiring clusterfrak soon.  I chose not to do it the easy way, but it's becoming more straightforward and obvious as I go.

The diagram I've been looking at is that to keep the engine running, there is a normally closed switch in the afm, which opens when there is airflow.  By opening the switch, you open a path to ground.  So there are two grounds, one for the STA1 / GRN side, and one for the EFI / AFM side.

As I understand it, you have two separate circuits, one to activate the fuel pump when starting (since there isn't any airflow), and one to keep the fuel pump running when there is airflow.  This second circuit has flow "in" from the EFI relay, but splits in two.  One side goes through the contact side of the relay "out" to the fuel pump, the other side goes to the coil side of the relay and closes contact side when the AFM is grounded (taking the + from the EFI relay power and sending it to ground to power the coil).

and my AFM wire is green (with yellow stripe?).  Found a picture:




Edited by jarmumd - 27 July 2011 at 8:43am

I have the harness ground connecting to a bolt on the upper intake manifold....  You know... I don't have either of the lower (near engine mount) or upper (head to firewall) grounds installed....  That's probably my issue..  dangit...  That's what you get working off the light of a headlamp....

Glad to hear you got it running.  You'll enjoy the EFI.