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bluetoy's '86 4runner buildup

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bluetoy View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bluetoy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 March 2009 at 8:57am
Originally posted by cj8lvr cj8lvr wrote:

Careful man, I hear Crocs aren't too good for welding.  Wink
 
Fine looking shop helper!
 
Don't worry Jake, i think I'll wait till he's at least three before I teach him to weld. By then he should be wearing steel toes. LOL
 
 
 
 
TOYOTA FOUR WHEEL DRIVE................need I say more?   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote alabamatoy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 March 2009 at 11:56am
Originally posted by Al Al wrote:

... the only thing I'll do different is not bend the tube/pipe on the lower piece since I don't have a bender.
 
In case you've forgotten, you OWN part of the bender that's resting quietly in Jeremy's garage!!!!
"If you didnt buy your 1st gen 4Runner new, then YOU are a newbie!!"

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Al Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 March 2009 at 12:24am
I hadn't forgot about it, but it's a tube bender and I'm using pipe for my TB.  I plan to use it for the PSD front bumper light bar one day.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bluetoy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 March 2009 at 12:40am
Al, that JD2 with a 1.75" tubing die will bend 1.250" sch 40 great. I now have a JD2 with the air over hydraulic conversion and a 1.750" die. It will bend a full 180 on the pipe without a flaw using the 1.750" tubing die. I never thought it would bend it without kinking, but it will. The O.D. on the 1.250 sch 40 is 1.660" so that's only .090" smaller than the 1.750". It is a little loose on the die and follower, but it makes a perfect bend.
TOYOTA FOUR WHEEL DRIVE................need I say more?   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Al Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 March 2009 at 5:35am
Well good to know.  I already have both the top and lower piece cut since I was planning a simple triangle; if it doesn't work, I'll take some 1.25 40 to J$s place and bend it for the lower piece.

Interesting story about that bender:  We bent the first two pieces of 1.75" tube, both kinked (these two ended up on my front Toy bumper) and then we did a test piece that also kinked; then we read the directions and figured out why were kinking tube.  Oh well, it was still fun and it worked good enough.

Back to Nick's Toy build.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bluetoy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 March 2009 at 1:57am
Since we are on this topic, here's a pic of the 1.250 sch 40 bent with a JD2 1.750 die.
 
Full 180, flawless bend.
TOYOTA FOUR WHEEL DRIVE................need I say more?   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bluetoy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 March 2009 at 2:15am
Alright, back to the Tan Turd build.
 
Got some more pic suploaded last night.
 
Stock spring hangers were trashed.
 
Torched them off and welded on a new hanger from Trail Gear.
 
Truck had some longer than stock shackles on it.
 
Ditched those in favor of the shorter stock units.
 
 
TOYOTA FOUR WHEEL DRIVE................need I say more?   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bluetoy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 March 2009 at 2:41am
The truck had some old crusty Warn hubs on it.
 
Warn hubs are junk, so they got ditched for some stock Aisin hubs. Also bought new brake calipers and pads for the front.
 
Front axle got cleaned, painted, greased , and put back together with the new High steer arms.
 
Cut down the dust shield for the brakes. You must keep the ring that bolts on with the spindle in order for everything to line up correctly. This is what's left after cutting it.
 
Next was the steering. The old push pull steering box needs to be removed and replaced with an IFS box for the high steer.
 
Old steering box.
 
Removed the box and cut out some of the inner fender to make it easier to work on.
 
New steering box with flat pitman arm installed on it.
 
I cut out some plates to reinforce the frame around the new steering box. Also cut some sleeves to weld in the frame to keep from collapsing when you tighten the bolts.
 
Clamped in place to mark frame for new holes.
 
Both sides plated and sleeved.
 
TOYOTA FOUR WHEEL DRIVE................need I say more?   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 94Blazer327 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 March 2009 at 4:31am
Non vented rotors- are those stock for that year?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bluetoy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 March 2009 at 4:40am
Yep. Those are stock rotors. A lot of people swap to the fj60 vented rotors and IFS calipers. That's what I did on my blue 4runner and my rebel truck, but these were new so I'll keep them on this truck. I've ran the non vented rotors for years on several rigs and never had any issues with them anyways. They actually seem to last longer than the vented rotors on the IFS trucks.
TOYOTA FOUR WHEEL DRIVE................need I say more?   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 94Blazer327 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 March 2009 at 4:41am
Theres nothing wrong with them, you just dont see them very much anymore- At least I dont.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote stubby09 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 March 2009 at 6:58am
u gonna be out in the shop 2night? if u are i may ride over and hang out for a while.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bluetoy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 March 2009 at 7:22am
Come on over. I'll put you to work. Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bluetoy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 April 2009 at 11:12am
Haven't took the time to update this in a while. I'll keep the typing to a minimum and post some pics of the progress.
 
 
Built a crossmember for the dual cases. It bolts solid to the cases and uses rubber at the new frame mounts.
 
new mount on inside of frame.
 
Old body mount bushings used for the mounts.
 
Installed.
 
Built heavy wall driveshafts for front and rear.
 
 
 
TOYOTA FOUR WHEEL DRIVE................need I say more?   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bkubisht Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 April 2009 at 11:20am
I've never seen anyone use a hard mount from the tcase to the crossmember.  Is this experimental?  The crossmember seems (to me) like a lot of mass to vibrate via the four bolts.
3RZ swapped 1985 Toyota 4Runner
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bluetoy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 April 2009 at 11:38am
Swapped in some Tacoma seats.
 
 
Next was to bob the bed and trim out the fender wells.
 
Fender wells marked.
 
Cut.
 
 
I use an old piece of string, a bungee cord, and spray paint to help mark the bed for cutting.
 
 
Cut the sides down to the floor.
 
Use the string again to mark the floor.
 
All cutting is done with a HF grinder and a cutoff wheel.
 
Next is to mark for the second cut.
 
 
Now the fun part, welding it back together. It's critical that the bed is cut parallel or you will have a big gap to weld. I got this one pretty close. Biggest gap anywhere was about 1/8".
 
  
 
Took about 2 hours to weld it back together.
 
 
The truck is still ugly.
 
 
 


Edited by bluetoy - 11 April 2009 at 11:47am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bluetoy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 April 2009 at 11:44am
Originally posted by bkubisht bkubisht wrote:

I've never seen anyone use a hard mount from the tcase to the crossmember.  Is this experimental?  The crossmember seems (to me) like a lot of mass to vibrate via the four bolts.
 
 
It's not totally hard mounted since it has the rubber bushings on the frame. It's the same setup as the front range crossmembers that bolt to the back of the t-case use to mount to the frame. Single bolt with rubber bushings to isolate the crossmember from the frame. Works well, with very little added vibration, and much stronger than the stock rubber tranny mounts. If it didn't have the rubber bushings it would rattle your teeth out.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bluetoy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 April 2009 at 11:58am
Now for the really fun part. Body work. I hate body work.
 
So I recruited Travis. He owes me one anyways.
 
 
 
We've made a little progress on he body work, but I don't have pics up yet. The body on this truck was in bad shape though. It has took a lot of work to get it looking decent. We have about all of the damage in the cab pulled out, bondo'd, and fixed. The bed is basically done, it will need one more coat of primer and some final sanding. Maybe we'll get it painted in the next couple of weeks.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bkubisht Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 April 2009 at 12:06pm
Yeah, I understand how the bushings were incorporated.  It hadn't sunk into my brain that this has eight bolts (dual cases) so it's even stronger than FROR's seven.  And far better than the 4 8x1.25 stock bolts I stripped at Harlan a couple weeks ago.
 
Cool technique with the string.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bluetoy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 April 2009 at 1:45pm
I really don't like the FROR style crossmember that bolts to the back of the case. I wouldn't run one if you gave it to me. My buddy has one on his rig and I don't like it at all. I've seen him get hung on the crossmember and try to back up and it would shove the whole drivetrain forward enough that the t-case shifter would hit the floor pan and pop into nuetral. It is not strong enough to handle front to back loads. The 3/8" plate flexes like crazy if you get snagged on a rock and try to move forward or backwards.
 
I think mine should work fine. Never know unless you try.
TOYOTA FOUR WHEEL DRIVE................need I say more?   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tex62 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 April 2009 at 3:36pm
Originally posted by bluetoy bluetoy wrote:

 
I think mine should work fine. Never know unless you try.


Good ol' can do attitude !
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote J/Cope79 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 April 2009 at 3:41am

lookin @ this build makes me miss my old Yota....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jhall01 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 April 2009 at 4:14am
heard you were workin on a jeep yesterday? whats up with that?Tongue
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 April 2009 at 4:39am
Originally posted by jhall01 jhall01 wrote:

heard you were workin on a jeep yesterday? whats up with that?Tongue
Wish I would have had a camera... for blackmail purposes LOL
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bluetoy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 April 2009 at 3:37pm
Originally posted by jhall01 jhall01 wrote:

heard you were workin on a jeep yesterday? whats up with that?Tongue
 
Yeah, someone entered a mud whompin jeep in a rock race. I felt sorry for the guy when it broke down, so I thought I would try to help. LOL
 
 
 
 
 
How was that creekbed trail ?  We left not long after I talked to you.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote J CROSS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 April 2009 at 3:49pm
What size welding wire do you use on the body work?

Edited by J CROSS - 12 April 2009 at 3:50pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bluetoy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 April 2009 at 1:54am
I use .024" wire for everything. I had .035" when I first got the welder. My buddy who is the welding instructor at the tech school advised me to switch to the smaller wire. It does weld better with the .024" than it did with the .035".
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 April 2009 at 3:56pm
Originally posted by J/Cope79 J/Cope79 wrote:


lookin @ this build makes me miss my old Yota....
You mean this one Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FatAzzRunner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 April 2009 at 12:13am
Makes me miss mine too, however, I havent been able to find anyone that knows the guy that bought it and if it's getting wheeled or just got parked.?Cry
 
With the cost of repairs on my VW, I am about ready to buy another Yota truck and fix it up as a DD/Wheeler.
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote J/Cope79 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 April 2009 at 3:05am
Originally posted by GreenToy80 GreenToy80 wrote:

Originally posted by J/Cope79 J/Cope79 wrote:


lookin @ this build makes me miss my old Yota....
You mean this one Wink
   YES THAT ONE!...At least it has been taken care of...It wouldnt happen to be for sale would it?Wink
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