Axle vs Transfer Case: What was Jeep thinking

I guess I should specify what I currently have.

What axles are you trying to find? A good majority of axles from the 70's to 80' are passenger side chunk.

Scout dana 44s will also work and are the same wheel bolt pattern but need to have the knuckles turned as they don't have enough caster.

WOW, so apparently I didnt do my research...I really appreciate the input.

My main goal in this modification is wider axles ( I have the narrow track).  If I am already replacing axles I might as well upgrade to a decent size.  I Currently have the Dana 30 up front and the AMC 20(with 1 piece shaft) in the rear.  I am running 1.5" spacers also. 

I  dont want to have to replace my current rims(5 on 5.5) unless the axles came with them.

I havent picked a size, because I thought my passenger drop was dictating my front axle. I would like to increase my tires from 32's to around 37's.  I would like to find an axle pair that can be dropped in with matching gears so I dont have to change them now, I can replace the guts later. 

Any help on matching axle size to hopeful tire size would be great.


....on a side not, I am trying to swindle axles from my errr Uncle-in-law  out of a 70's model stepside.  This would come with tires and rims which would be perfect....if he will let it go.



 

78CJ wrote: Is there an axle upgrade for my Jeep with a passenger Chunk?

 

treeguy wrote: If you want to run 37's on a cj5 you will have to stretch the frame. They are just too short. The rear driveshaft angle will be way extreme.

Mine measures about 85" axle to axle.

bluetoy wrote: 78CJ wrote: Is there an axle upgrade for my Jeep with a passenger Chunk?       Toyota axles........, passenger side drop, and a huge upgrade from anything Jeep ever offered.

Blah- Im not even gonna touch this one Nick

78CJ wrote: After some further research, it seems like it makes more sense to switch to a driver drop so I have an easier(cheaper) conversion while maintaining a 5 on 5.5.  I noticed someone selling a BW 1345 and/or a NP 208.  will either of these bolt to  my 78 T-18 and would this be a prefered conversion.  I looked around and it sounds like ford has matched the 2 up before, but I couldnt find a definitive answer.  If I do this I can buy mudlights dana 44 and go find an 8.8.

just go with a 9"..... dont go with a 8.8. you can find a 9" all day long in the junk yards...

Here's the 300

Edited by scoutman - 16 September 2009 at 3:26pm

ERRR tried registering for the link and got rejected (shrug) any way.  Got scared away from the Scouts because of the Casters.....Lots 'o' work....If you have any suggestions on how to make that easier let me know.  As far as flipping the case....I was trying to prevent that.  I will however try and find a D-300(think the bro-inlaw is gonna give me one

Just saw this on Craigslist.
May be a good set for your - not sure.
Somebody on here may be able to tell what's under it from the description and pics.
Six lug it looks like.
If it's a 44 front - that may be a good one for you.  Pass side drop for sure whatever it is.
Not a 60 I'm certain of that.


Edited by cj8lvr - 17 September 2009 at 4:37pm

CUCV Blazers have a 10 bolt front ,12 bolt rear

Also theres nothing wrong with a D20 case . A guy in our club (DamnLocals) is running one in a EB with 42's and man he beats on that Bronco. I wouldnt even mess with changin the case unless you are just dead set on it.

My problem is I am not partial to any one axle.  I am trying to do a budget build ( oxymoron I know).  What I mean by this is I want a matching set so I can change gears later.  I dont mind the fab work such as turning casters, but I dont want to shorten an axle either.  

Edited by 78CJ - 21 September 2009 at 3:00am

Interesting...haven't really considered Toyota's....I will definitely have to check into them.  I don't mind a rim change I can probably find some stock rims for cheap

Wow. A jeep guy considering toy axles.

I'm not opposed to putting Toy axles in a Jeep.  He'd better be ready for some ribbing from the Toy and Jeep crowds tho. 

Am I the only person that cant register for Tennessee offroad?  Everytime I get the automated email it doesnt have a password or anything...and the links are dead.  I have registered under 2 different names and still can't get on...so all these nice buys you guys post I can't look at.

Keep in mind, you're talking about a 4runner with 25 year old stock birfields, a 4.3, and 39.5's. Yes they should explode. What do you think would've happened if he would have had a D44 with 25 year old u joints in the same rig?

Stock toy birfs will not hold up to anything over a 36" tire worth a crap. I know, I've broken my my share with 36's.  Neither will a D44 though. 

 

Also, don't  think a toyota 4cyl doesn't have enough power to break stuff.

Randy's R&P makes a brifield eliminator for toyota axles that uses chromoly D44 shafts that replace the birfields. These will not hold up much better than a stock birf. Seen plenty of them grenaded with the underpowered 22R.

Hudlow axle used to make hybrid toy axles with D44 outers. I've got some buddys from the Chattanooga area who ran these. They broke the chromo 44 shafts like twigs. With a 22R.

My buddy (VsToy) has a waggy 44 under his 4cyl taco and he broke an axle nearly every time he went out running 37" goodyears. These were aftermarket joints also.

 

How many D44 axles have ya'll broke in that white toy with a 22RE ?

 

I've seen countless people running toy axles with chromo birfs and Zero failures. I've beat the living crap out of mine with 39.5" TSLs and 38.5" SXs and haven't had a single issue. As for the more HP, Don F. has been running 38.5" SX's with longfields under his 4.3 powered rig for two years now with zero failures also.

 

All of this is probably irrelevant to the original poster, but I still say a built toy axle is significantly stronger than a built d44 regardless of what rig it's under.

 

 

94Blazer327 wrote:   Im no fan of D44's , but they arent too bad with good joints and under a 37" tire.   Mainly I say go Dana , for stability on that 5.

Sorry,  V.    

jhall01 wrote: IDK how you havnt broken a 30 spline stub...

Cause I let off when Im airborne , and throw tha cods to it after touchdown

Naa, unless you like goin down 4wheeler trails with your jeep. Everybody outboards and goes full width. Well not everybody but alot of people.Itll do fine

78CJ wrote:   My only problem now is getting the tires that will fit it (hes my fab guy)

Try to ignore my sig with this reply as I drive the toy and wheel  cj's...it seems you're set on going with full width axles but i have 2 cj a 5 and a 7 and went through the same thing years ago.  At the time I had to decide if I was going to drive around with the tires sticking a foot and a half out both sides or if I wanted to keep thing underneath.  I spent quite sometime searching Ebay and finally found a set of wide tracks with 4:56's, detroit in back, truetrac up front and chrome molies in both ends for $700.  Alot of people don't like the 29 spline AMC 20's but with 1 piece axles they are pretty decent...the bigger issue is getting the axle tubes welded and trussed.  I guess it's all in what you like, these axles are under a 79 CJ7 now with a 304, T18 and a EB geared D20 with 36's and has held up well.  Just depends on how extereme you want to be.

Yep. Low pinion  D44 and D60 . Just tell em standard cut gear

Well first off, whats the gear in your axles now? 2:73 - 3:73 take a certain carrier. Then 4:11-4:56 take a certain carrier. Then I *think* 4:88 and up take a certain carrier. You can do a thick gear set or a rig gear spacer as well. As long as scoutmans gears are for a standard cut low pinion then yes they will work provided you have the correct carrier/spacer combination. Or if they are thick gear and you have the thin carrier.

Yea I figured I would have to do a new carrier, but I am looking to build the axles when I get the money(hopefully sooner then later), so if I find a good deal i will probably consider it.