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Toyota Engine Swap

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alabamatoy View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote alabamatoy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 April 2017 at 8:19am
Originally posted by 83K10 83K10 wrote:

I finished welding up those bungs and the rest of the pipes the other night.


I drove it around 83k10's yard yesterday...it moves under it own power for first time since December 2015!

But I *must* get that trash fuel out of the tank.  Nick, where is the fuel pump jumper?  I want to disconnect the fuel line just before the fuel filter and pump all that crap out.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jarmumd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 April 2017 at 12:00pm
Isn't there a drain plug on the bottom of the tank?  both my efi and carb 4runner tanks had one, right in the center.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote alabamatoy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 April 2017 at 12:15pm
Originally posted by jarmumd jarmumd wrote:

Isn't there a drain plug on the bottom of the tank?  both my efi and carb 4runner tanks had one, right in the center.
Nick said something about that, but I havent looked.  Mine is so bashed in, I dont know if the drain is usable, but that's on my 2do list for next time out there.

Maybe I need to remove the sending/pump unit, stick a 2X4 down in there and sledgehammer it back into shape.  I've lost about 2 gal of capacity from the dent in the tank.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote alabamatoy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 April 2017 at 1:03pm
This past Saturday, I disconnected the fuel line at the filter, jumpered the fuel pump and ran about 7 gal of putrid fuel out of the tank.  It apparently has some baffles and such in the tank, since letting it sit for a few minutes would produce more fuel, then it would run out again, repeat.  Got as much of the old nasty fuel out as possible, put 5 gal fresh (although NOT sugar-free) gas in.  Loaded the 4Runner into the trailer and dragged it home to Madison.

So she's back in my garage after 15 months.  And John has a whole bunch more room for his own projects....

Got most of the battery mounting/tiedown done.  No more bungee cords!! Wooohooo, I can pass RCRC safety checks now....

Nick, I need your help with those last few connections and the Tachometer, would like to have a functional tachometer.

The interior will start going back in over the next couple weeks.  I hope to have it road/trail ready by end of May.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 50Willys Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 April 2017 at 7:16pm
Keep up the good work!
Bob S.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote alabamatoy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 May 2017 at 7:52pm
Interior is largely done, but still have to wire up the coms gear (CB and ham radio) and the wonderful trucker fan on the dash.

While the whole dash was out, I replaced the A/C evaporator.  You wouldn't believe what was in there.  I thiought for a minute I had found the ghost of Brutus - there was a slug of doghair in there bigger than some dogs I have known, plus a lot of leaves and other crap.  The new evaporator is sealed up....at some point I will try to reanimate the A/C, but not right now.

The steering is done, and as Nick predicted, it sux.  The newer generation pumps just dont have the moxie that the old ones do.  A new PSC pump is $250, so it will hafta wait.

The exhaust is too loud.  It will do for now, but it sounds like some high-schooler fart-can Honda.

All the electrical is done, except the tachometer, which sux since I bought the Dakota Digital converter, but I can't seem to make it work.  I still have some things to tie down here and there, and I have to seal up the new engine harness where it goes through the firewall.

I still have yet to build a box to protect the ECU, which is right beside the passengers right foot.

I installed a hood scoop today, and cut holes in the hood to let the heat out.  That should help with keeping it cooler.  It runs with the original gauge showing just a wee bit higher than where the 4 cylinder motor usually ran, so I hope that will be OK.  It doesn't seem to creep up in temp at a light or anything like that.




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dontoy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 May 2017 at 8:15am
Good read Doc thanks for update. I'll look and see how my tack is wired up. I used the Dakota digital converter to condition the GM 6 cylinder signal for the toy 4 cylinder tachometer. Seems like it was not wired per directions to make it work.

Don

Edited by dontoy - 21 May 2017 at 8:19am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote dontoy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 May 2017 at 8:26am
Doc,

Also if you haven't done it you can remove the rubber seal that seals between the back of the hood and firewall. You can also put a few washers between the hood hinges and hood to lift the back of the hood to let heat out. This helped cool my 6 cylinder back when my ride still had that pesky sheet metal!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote alabamatoy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 May 2017 at 1:23pm
Originally posted by dontoy dontoy wrote:

Doc,

Also if you haven't done it you can remove the rubber seal that seals between the back of the hood and firewall.


I had not thought of that.

Here's the scoop:





I put a drop-light at the scoop opening so you can see the vents.  I guess I could have had a "shaker" hood.  :-)

I got some rattle-cans of paint mixed to the Toyota original paint code.  At some point I will paint the scoop and some of the other plethora of colors on the truck back to the original color.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dontoy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 2017 at 9:30am
Doc looks like that scoop should do the job. I did not know you could have rattle can paint custom mixed.

Don
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bluetoy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 2017 at 7:36pm
You will have to solder a resistor on the tachometer board before it will work with the Tacoma engine signal. The box you bought just converts a six cylinder signal to a four cylinder signal. I have the resistors and can help if needed.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote J CROSS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 May 2017 at 9:15am
[QUOTE=

The exhaust is too loud.  It will do for now, but it sounds like some high-schooler fart-can Honda.





I ended up using a Walker "quite flow" muffler and it has a low keyed rumble to it that I find acceptable.



Edited by J CROSS - 23 May 2017 at 9:19am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote alabamatoy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 May 2017 at 9:35am
Originally posted by bluetoy bluetoy wrote:

You will have to solder a resistor on the tachometer board before it will work with the Tacoma engine signal. The box you bought just converts a six cylinder signal to a four cylinder signal. I have the resistors and can help if needed.


I need to know the correct resistor and where it goes.  I researched this and found answers that were all over and didnt really trust what I was finding: solder it here, NO, solder it THERE!  Some people had posted that the 6-cylinder signal is really a 3-cylinder signal since it has 3 coils, wasting a spark on alternating cylinders.  Later versions of the 5VZ (2002-on, I think) have coil-on-plug for all 6 cylinders, whereas mine only has coil on plug for 3, with a plug wire going to the paired cylinder.

I have a fairly high-end soldering station for small work on PCBs.  So I should be able to do it without destroying the board.

Originally posted by J CROSS J CROSS wrote:

I ended up using a Walker "quite flow" muffler and it has a low keyed rumble to it that I find acceptable.


I think mine is a Walker, but I have forgotten.  I'm not going to change the muffler because John did so much stainless TIG welding on it, so I will probably just add another cheapo muffler.  Hopefully 2 in series should quieten 'er down.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RL-RRC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 May 2017 at 9:01am
Originally posted by alabamatoy alabamatoy wrote:

Here's the muffler:


Im worried about this muffler being too loud, 


Looks like a Magnaflow (which makes great quality stuff), and you called it. The can just isn't big enough to offer sufficient sound absorption.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote alabamatoy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 June 2017 at 1:02pm
I continue to knock items off my 4Runner checklist.  The front DS is shortened and installed.  John's beautiful xfer-case skidplate is installed.  I pulled the rear diff and fixed a prodigious gear oil leak (has nothing to ddo with the swap...)  I found an el-cheapo 12" glasspack muffler for $19 at summitracing that I am going to add to tone down the ricer fart-can sound. 

I drove it to Decatur and back Saturday, no problems.  I'm getting a CEL, but Im pretty certain I know what it is, and I can live with it for the moment, it doesnt put it out of closed loop.  I sat in the Arby's drive-up line for quite a while Saturday (love those orange cream shakes, summer only, I think they have some meth in them or something...) and the engine coolant never got above 204degF, and the temp gauge stays rock solid.  I haven't heard the fan clutch engage yet, I hope it works right.

The intake air temps creep up, so at some point I will build a cold air box for the intake and possibly add louvers to the hood as an air inlet.  I wonder how much difference intake air temps make?  It crept up to around 115degF, but it drops to about 100 once you start moving.  How important is this?

I still havent got the tach working.  Nick, I will need your help with this.

I need a horn - yes, the compressed-air train horn is gone, no onboard air.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 83K10 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 June 2017 at 8:28pm
I know at least one of our toyota parts trucks has a horn on it if you want to go back with a factory one. The air intake temps lower is a good idea but if 115 is the highest you've seen, I wouldn't worry to much about it at the moment. It's not much different than driving on a really hot day in the summertime. It would be a good idea at some point to build an air box.
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