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Toyota Engine Swap

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CJ7OX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 March 2016 at 4:49am
Speeding recovery to Kari! Good looking motor, Doc!
~Sean
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dontoy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 March 2016 at 7:13am
Doc hope Kari gets back on her feet soon and feeling better than she has in some time.

Toy progress looking good. Having done a Toy 4 gas to GM 6 gas and a Toy 6 gas to ISUZU 4 diesel I can fully relate to what your doing. The list grows and grows!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote alabamatoy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 April 2016 at 9:09am

Kari is doing very well with her new knee.

And speaking of transplants....we made some progress on the Toyota.  Here is the new motor and transmission on its way in...



And here in its new home:


There is still a lot to be done.  This was primarily just a test fit, to get the motor mounts installed and to ensure that the prototype exhaust crossover would fit.

Speaking of the motor mounts, here are the three evolutions of the mounts:


From right to left above, this is the Offroadsolutions mount (very thin), our interpretation of that mount in some decent thickness material, and then the final mount.  We discovered that in order to use the ORS mount, you had to go buy 3.0 V6 mounts and engine side tabs.....so John redrew the mount on the CAD in about 10 minutes, cut new ones out, and welded them together.  This will probably become a product soon - 5VZ weld-in motor mounts that fit onto a stock 5VZ instead of making you go scrounge parts off a three-point-slow V6. 

Also note John's incredible new welding table.  The plasma table is barely visible on the drivers side of the Toyota.

Here's a shot of his main shop:


You can see the knee-mill at left of the above pic.  There is a monstrous wonderful old lathe next to it.  I have no idea how to use that stuff, but John does.

I am hopeful that I will have time to pull the engine back out again this weekend and we can finish up the exhaust crossover, then I can start working on the heat shielding on the tranny tunnel.  We will finish weld the mounts while the engine is back out and prime/paint them.  Then its on to the thousand other things it takes to fit a 2000 model engine and transmission into a 1986 model truck.

If you have some parts you need fabricated, John (GSI) can take a CAD drawing and cut it out in very short order.





Edited by alabamatoy - 06 April 2016 at 9:30am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote alabamatoy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 April 2016 at 9:49am
Here's his plasma table in action:


This is cutting out the 5VZ exhaust flanges.  In this case, I bought the material (1/4" 304 Stainless) and sent him the CAD file.  He had to make some minor tweaks to the CAD file but basically it worked out exactly like we wanted.  My point is, this is a really cool resource for those of us who do some hobby shop (or even professional) fabrication.  Send John a CAD file, then work out what all is involved in making what you want, what materials etc and he can either cut it out and give you the pieces, or actually fab it for you based on your drawing.

....for a small fee, of course.LOL
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 83K10 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 April 2016 at 4:12pm
I've actually made two more versions of that 5VZ mount this week. I'm trying to make them a little stronger and easier to produce. I plan to do a run of these and release them in a couple of weeks if all goes well.

My engine hoist wouldn't pick up the 5vz tall enough to put it into Doc's 4runner. We decided to lift it with my com along. I've got a really big one rated to dead lift 4000 lbs. I wouldn't recommend trying to do this with a little hard ware store version. We put the pulley to one of the building's beams and attached the com along to one of the down legs of the beam so we could operate it while standing on the floor instead of having to be on a ladder.





This was definitely a 'will it fit' moment. I will not be doing it this way again. It was a pain to get the engine/trans to angle down enough to go in. It took some creative rigging and some wrestling with it.



Doc being very relieved that it actually fits in the engine bay.



Fitting the new motor mount brackets. We managed to get all the dimensions good on the first try. This is trickier than it sounds. The engine is just kinda hanging there in space as we're trying to shove a tape measure down beside the frame and read it accurately. The frame is also rounded pretty good on the corners and Doc's has some extra plates welded on in this area.






Edited by 83K10 - 06 April 2016 at 5:16pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote J CROSS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 April 2016 at 12:39am
Doc is going to think he's in a new truck. I really like the exhaust crossover piping, it makes me want to do that to my 4runner. John do you have any idea what you would charge for the crossover piping as a DIY kit? All looks great so far.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 83K10 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 April 2016 at 1:13pm
Yeah he probably will with the power it should have vs a 22re. It doesn't look like our intended routing is going to work out. We don't have quite enough room to come through where we wanted. I think we're going to dump it further forward. The slave cylinder is in our way. We've looking at using a bellhousing from a 3VZ version of an R150F as it's on the other side.

I really haven't thought about offering the crossover piping as a DIY kit. It's all 304 Stainless so whoever bought it would have to be able to tig weld stainless. It wouldn't turn out well to try to MIG this. I do plan to make and sell them finished at some point. I've got some contacts that can do custom CNC bent tubes where there would be no pie cuts or really any fitting required. I'm going to check into that once I get a good functional prototype. If I do that, I guess I could offer it as a diy kit. You would still just about need a jig or an engine/transmission out and some careful measurements in order to clear the body. There's a decent bit of wiggle in the angles for this kind of stuff which translates to a different location at the other end of a long piece. There's not a lot of room for error to make it clear the body and the trans.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote alabamatoy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 April 2016 at 3:20am
Originally posted by 83K10 83K10 wrote:

It doesn't look like our intended routing is going to work out. We don't have quite enough room to come through where we wanted. I think we're going to dump it further forward. The slave cylinder is in our way. We've looking at using a bellhousing from a 3VZ version of an R150F as it's on the other side.


Nick has a 3VZ bellhousing.  This will move the clutch slave cylinder to the passenger side.  Now I hafta go back and reinstall the clutch hydro lines I hacked out of the engine compartment because I thought I didnt need them.  Oh well.  But this will give John plenty of room to construct the collector where left and right exhaust melds together.  It will also give me more room to build a heatshield so my feet wont get fried on the trail.

The lower radiator hose looks like the original 22RE hose will work.  The upper looks like the 5VZ hose will work with some mods.  I will have to build a new fan shroud.

The R150 trans is much shorter than the W-whatever that was behind the 22RE.  So the trans tunnel hacking will continue - the gearshift will be forward of the 22RE location, and so will the two xfer case shifters.  But this should solve the horsecollar interference problems I had with the xfer case brake.

Speaking of xfer case brake, this is going to get redesigned also.  The TG brake itself is a glorious POS.  The caliper simply doesnt fit properly, and a goodly portion of the pad is actually not even on the face of the disc.  It wears over time, and soon you have two pads contacting each other and the parking brake no longer works.  SO....

The under-dash parking brake is gone - the cable exited the firewall right where the left exhaust manifold wanted to be.  Good riddance, I have cussed it innumerable times for jumping out and bashing my knee getting in and out of the truck over the years**.  It will be replaced with a hand-brake from a 2000 vintage 4Runner.  This will operate a Willwood mechanical caliper.  So my 50-cal ammo box console has gotta go.  John already cut a nice bracket to mount the parking brake on the floorboards between the seats.   The brake cable will be short and go through the floor to the xfer case brake and Willwood caliper.


** - Side rant - the hand parking brake is still light-years better than the ridiculous foot operated parking brake in my Ford F250.  The IDIOTS who designed this brake apparently have never considered that it gets used by people with mud on their shoes.  Many times I have gotten in the Ford after having stomped the parking brake leaving mud on the pedal, released the parking brake only to have the pedal launch a glob of mud like a little trebuchet.  And its fitted perfectly to put that glob of mud right in your left eye.  I have had this happen several times and each time I curse Henry Ford and all his descendants.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 83K10 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 December 2016 at 9:12am
It's been way to long since an update for this. We have rebuilt the t cases and are working on a crossmember for the doubler with the 5vz R150 swap. The t cases are in a much different location due to the different lengths of the engine/trans.

There's tons of little things to do to make everything work out. I welded up this bung to a piece of aluminum tubing for some of the intake piping the other day. The factory setup won't work as the maf housing is attached to the air box with no way of attaching another hose to it.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote alabamatoy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 December 2016 at 10:57am
Progress!  Haven't posted any updates in a while...but the project progresses, just very slowly.

Here is the final assembly of the xfer case.  We had actually assembled it once before, then realized that I had only a weak 21 spline input in the rear reduction box, and with this big stout torquey 3.4, it probably wouldn't last.  I have broken one input shaft in this box already.  In the process of assembly, we discovered that the rear reduction box also had a nice crack in it, so that was also replaced.








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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote alabamatoy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 December 2016 at 11:15am
Here we cut the first prototype of the crossmember.  The 3.4 with the R150 trans is shorter than the older 2.4 with whatever transmission it had.  The rear of the transfer case is about 2 inches forward of where it was.



You can see how nicely this table cuts, John has pretty much dialed-in the settings.  This is just 16ga sheet (I think) because we wanted to cut out the new design and check for fit and such.



Here it is on top of the original crossmember.  We found a couple of problems.  Its very easy to get disoriented when doing this on CAD, and we put the clearance for the front driveshaft on the wrong side, so that will have to be corrected.  You can also see how much father forward the mounts are than the original.  The actual part will be cut from 1/4 plate.



You can see in the photo above that the holes on the "wings" dont line up, this is because the center section has not been bent to the necessary profile, once bent they aligned very nicely.  The final part will also have a skid plate added underneath to further protect the expensive xfer case.  It will be cut from 1/4 plate also and will be much wider than the center section you see here.  John got the mounting holes correct for the skid plate, and the cool thing is you just copy that into another file, draw the plate around it where you want it, and cut it out.  Then the plate will be put in the CNC mill to have the holes cut very precisely.  The plasma cuts nice holes, but the smaller the hole, the more sloppy its cuts.  So what John does is just have the plasma etch the center location of the hole rather than cutting it, then let the CNC cut the hole.  The holes for the xfercase mounts have to be countersunk to accept countersunk hex screws so the skid plate can mount flush.  The CNC can do all that.  We will tap the ones for the skidplate after that.


Edited by alabamatoy - 24 December 2016 at 11:18am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 50Willys Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 December 2016 at 8:50pm
Good progress Doc & John!  When do you get to bring it home?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 83K10 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 December 2016 at 10:34pm
No idea when it will be going home. It's very time consuming dealing with all the little details.

We'll be cutting the cross member out of 3/8" plate. I'm not sure Doc's explanation of our process was clear. I'll give it a try. When cutting out parts on a cnc plasma you're limited in how small a detail you can achieve as you're cutting with a flame that is 0.050" to 0.100" across. The thicker the plate, generally the wider the kerf of the cut. This makes it difficult to get good sma) holes in thicker plates. One solution for this is to use our engraver on the cnc plasma table to center punch the hole locations. After finishing cutting out the part these center punch marks can be used to locate the holes. They can be drilled by hand, in a drill press, or a mill. We'll be using our cnc mill to drill the pattern. The punch marks are still useful in lining up the plate on the mill table using a centerfinder.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote alabamatoy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 December 2016 at 9:52pm
Major progress.  We got more done on Friday and Monday of the past week than I have in the past 3 months.  The xfer cases are installed, mated up to the V6 R150 transmission, and everything fits.  I have to butcher my floorboards some more, but that's a story for another day.

The crossmember!  We cut it out on the plasma, using the same file as the previous thin prototype, but with some minor changes.  First you will see the engraver doing the lettering (which it does in a seemingly random order) and the GSI logo (designed by yours truly), then it will mark all the center points for all of the holes to be drilled on the CNC.  Then we let 'er rip with cutting out the clearance holes and the wing mounting holes, and the outline of the item.



Here is the crossmember in the CNC mill ready for having all the transfercase mount holes and the skidplate holes cut, tapped and countersunk.





We ran into a problem with the tap - the drill chuck simply would not hold it tight enough, so we had to hand tap the holes, but use a centering fixture under the mill head to ensure that the tap was not wobbling around like it would if you were just holding it.

Here's the finished items:





You can see the countersunk holes for the mount screws, and the smaller threaded holes around the center section for the skidplate mounting screws.  The bends were much easier than I thought it would be - the 20 ton press with air assist just bent it, no fuss.  We even over bent one slightly and had to bring it back about 10 degrees, and it was no sweat.

Here it is mounted in place:



The trans jack is just supporting the weight, the crossmember is actually installed on the mounts, all the bolt holes lined up!





Edited by alabamatoy - 27 December 2016 at 10:42pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CJ7OX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 December 2016 at 1:36pm
Looks great, John & Doc!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dontoy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 January 2017 at 4:23pm
Nice work guys...........love the HD equipment!
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote alabamatoy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 January 2017 at 8:14pm
More progress....the intake is assembled:



This ultimately will be temporary - I want to create some kind of cold air intake, perhaps even a snorkle.  But this should suffice for now.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CJ7OX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 January 2017 at 9:31am
Looking good!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote alabamatoy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 January 2017 at 5:31pm
More progress!  Got the crossmember back from powdercoat, and Kreative Koatings seems to have done a pretty darn good job.



We ran into a problem, some of the crossmember mounting holes along the frame rails are stripped.  John punched out the ones which were inside the frame, set a nut in its place, and TIGed it in place.  The stripped ones which were outbard of the frame we just drilled out and put a nut on top of the old one, and TIGed that in place.  The problem:


Tease a TIG wire through the frame hole to a access hole further down the frame, put the nut over the TIG wire, wiggle it till the nut appears over the hole where you want it. 

TIG it in place.


The solution:


The crossmember in place:


In this pic, you can also see the temporary tacked-together exhust.  New 2.5" stainless tubing.  A short section will have to be added after the catalyst to provide a mounting location for the downstream O2 sensor.  The upstream will be mounted just downstream of the bend in the right of the photo. 

I am also adding a stainless heatshield to further protect the shackle and the xfercase and my FEET from the catalyst heat.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 83K10 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 January 2017 at 7:40am
Here's a better picture of the cross member in Doc's toyota. One side benefit of the V6 swap is it moves the transfer cases forward several inches. This gives the t case e brake a lot more room in the tunnel. Notice the hole in the top of the picture. It's where the previous modification to clear the brake was.



Edited by 83K10 - 23 January 2017 at 7:57am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote alabamatoy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 January 2017 at 9:03am
Originally posted by 83K10 83K10 wrote:

Notice the hole in the top of the picture. It's where the previous modification to clear the brake was. 


Yes, correct.  And this begats some sheetmetal changes to cover up the previous mods.  If this were a stock floorboard, it would have almost fit with no mods!  The transmission shifter is moved forward slightly, so it needs about 1.5" of sheetmetal removed.  As it is, I have to cover the gaping hole from the previous disc clearance, then make a long piece to allow fitting of the 3 shifter boots.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bluetoy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 January 2017 at 8:19pm
Awesome job! That crossmember looks great.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote alabamatoy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 February 2017 at 5:24pm
So I learned something...JIC flare fittings are not the same flare as standard US.  SAE flares are 45deg, but JIC are 37deg.  So I hadta buy a 37deg flare tool.  I got a Ridgid, and it seems to be *very* well made and worked great on 3/8" steel tubing.


The flares came out very well. 



We made a hardline that runs across the top of the motor, and used rubber insulated brackets to hold it in place.  We put a 6mm bolt on top of the strange little Toyota shouldered 6mm bolts that hold the big plastic shroud on the front of the engine, and John tigged them together.  Two of these hold the shroud on and now also hold the hardline in place.


Here is the hardline, mounted in place, with a flex line at each end.




I ran another piece of hardline across in front of the radiator as a return line.  The entire power steering is ready to roll, on to the next item....probably next is the battery box.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote alabamatoy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 March 2017 at 5:15pm
The wiring has begun...

I pulled the dash out of both the donor Tacoma and my old 4Runner.  The wiring harness was removed from the Tacoma and laid out on the shop floor and much of the interior bundles were peeled to allow access to the individual wires:

Nick pawes through this mess, while chanting some magic words and looking a few times at some wiring diagrams, and separates what I need from what I dont need.  We were left with:


There are actually a few more bits, but this is most of it.  The entire engine harness, of course, is already in the truck.  Or most of it was, I finished installing most of that today.
Next, Nick begins to graft the required remnants of the Tacoma harness into the 4Runner.


He will connect the start and power connections, the OBDII port, the tach, the check engine light, and a few other items.  He wires up a new "circuit opening relay" (essentially a fuel pump relay) and another EFI relay.

The ECU will have to be mounted just right of the passenger's feet, there is simply nowhere else to put it without a whole lot of effort - the wiring bundle from the engine that comes through the firewall is probably close to 2 inches in diameter, and its just too short to put the ECU box anywhere else unless I go to a WHOLE lot of trouble to build some kind of an extension cable.

Also, I have to pull apart one more of the Tacoma harnesses which has the connection to the 3.4 harness that goes underneath the engine - it has the connections to the starter, battery, and alternator.  This stuff has to be connected to the old 4Runner via some custom cables.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote alabamatoy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 March 2017 at 5:59pm
The exhaust is coming together as well. John drew up the necessary Toyota O2 sensor bungs and milled them from 304 stainless.  These will be available on his store site soon.  They are cut for a 2.5" diameter exhaust pipe.  Here is one tac welded onto the exhaust:


Here he is tacing the second bung on.  You can see the entire front portion of the exhaust:


Here's the muffler:


Im worried about this muffler being too loud, so we are putting a flange on after it, first so we dont have to remove the entire exhaust to replace the tailpipe if I ever crunch it on a rock, and second it will allow me to possibly add a second muffler to quieten it down.

Some TIG porn:





"If you didnt buy your 1st gen 4Runner new, then YOU are a newbie!!"

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