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’85 Toy High Steer for $500?

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Al View Drop Down
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    Posted: 09 October 2006 at 12:57am

I need to go to high steer on my '85 4Runner and I've got about $500 right now.  Doable?

MC-13572, High Steer Kit, w/4 Bolt Billet Arms $399
IFS Steering box mount kit $19
MC-13261, U-Bolt Flip Kit, Front 84-85 $49
Front Spring Hanger $85

Total: $552.

That still leaves leaf springs (rears up front?), Ford shock mounts and shocks.  Anything else I'm missing?  I've already have a '89 steering box.

Al

 



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bluetoy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 October 2006 at 2:34am

I would reccomend trail gear for your high steer and other parts. + free shipping.

I have ordered a lot of parts from both Marlin and trail gear. I have had better service from trail gear, not to mention better prices on identical parts.

I'm probably gonna be the only one to tell you this, but I would DEFINATLEY NOT reccomend using the rears up front. I fell victim to all the hype you read on the internet about how awesome they work. Thats bull. Period. I tried everything I knew to make these work and I never could get my '89 to do as good as my old '84. I recently got my old 3" front springs that I ran on my '84 back from BJ after he bought new ones. I put these on my '89 and it performs 100% better than it did with the rears up front. This is not some crap I read on Pirate, this is real world experience.

If your wanting it to flex like mad and look good on an RTI ramp, then yes the RUF's do that. If you want it to work on the trail stick with what you already have. Almost everyone will disagree with me, but you've saw several of the rigs I've built or helped build on the trail many times.You know what my '84 was capable of. Base your opinion on what you've seen not what you've read. It's a hard lesson learned. Ask me how I know.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote -DRM- Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 October 2006 at 3:11am
Rears up front work fine - IF you have the time and patience to build a pack for the front that works well.  And considering I was one of the first people in the country to do it back in the late 90's, I think I have a clue how it's done

The main benefit is moving the axle way forward - bigger tires & very little lift.  If that's not a concern for you, then rears up front are a waste of your time.

Anyway...


I agree on the Trail Gear steering kit for the best price.

How about this, all from TG (free shipping)

steering - $369
front hanger - $75
U bolt flip - $49

Then the $19 box mount from Marlin

That's $512, a $40 savings over what you posted.

As for springs, you can still look into building your own pack - IF you have the patience to do it.  Building packs doesn't have to be limited to rears up front, you can mix and match leaves in stock fronts to get them to work better too.

I've also built packs using YJ springs and J truck (Wagoneer) springs as well.  I've gotten them all to work.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bluetoy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 October 2006 at 3:15am

Read this. http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=25789.0

I posted this on marlin a while back and pretty much got flamed for it. Nobody agreed with me but I've seen the proof.

Also my buddy BJ (has my old '84) bought 5" marlin crawler front springs. He ran these for a short while, but has since went to 3" downey springs. We went on our first ride saturday night since we both went back to stock length front springs. I was HIGHLY impressed with the difference it made. Donnie Woodall has 5" all-pro fronts. He is having the same problems I had and is ordering 3'' downeys also. Having a ton of flex is not all it's cracked up to be. I've learned a lot about what makes a leaf spring suspension work and it's not all about flex.

Like I said, most will disagree.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bluetoy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 October 2006 at 3:43am

Originally posted by -DRM- -DRM- wrote:

Rears up front work fine - IF you have the time and patience to build a pack for the front that works well.  And considering I was one of the first people in the country to do it back in the late 90's, I think I have a clue how it's done


I did take the time to build a good pack, then I took the time to rebuild the first pack , then modified it again.

They'll work "good" but there are some definate issues with the rears up front. The main problems are unloading on a steep climb and axlewrap. I read all the writeups on how to build rears up front. I tried everything I could to make them work. They worked good but not as good as I wanted.

Between all of our bunch (the skyline crew) we have ran about every kind of spring possible. I've seen what works and what don't.

I could argue my point on here all day, but I've seen the difference on the trail. That's where I base my opinion.

TOYOTA FOUR WHEEL DRIVE................need I say more?   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Al Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 October 2006 at 4:27am

Good info on Trail Gear, that does save me some money.

If I stick with my current springs, what does this new spring hanger do for me?

Front Spring Hanger $85

My front springs need to be rearched, I've done it once, but it didn't "take".  After having my rear springs rearched by professionals in Flagstaff while vacation, I think I know the secret and can make them work better if I do it again. 

Thanks,

Al

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bluetoy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 October 2006 at 4:53am

There's no reason for you to use a new front spring hanger with your current springs. Why do you need to rearch your front springs? if your tires are clearing I would keep that thing as low as possible. I would run a negative arch factory front spring if I could clear my tires. Clint H. ran factory springs on his '80 with 36" tires and no lift at all. He tried to flip it over before we tore it apart, and instead of rolling over it just kept climbing. If have seen that truck in some insanely off camber climbs and it just kept going...That was an awesome rig. R.I.P. Green Turd .......but just wait until we get his buggy built

TOYOTA FOUR WHEEL DRIVE................need I say more?   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Al Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 October 2006 at 6:14am

Great, sounds like another $85 saved!  My current front springs are what came with the truck; they have been negatively arched before I installed bump stop extenders.  Sounds like I don't need to make my front springs the highest priority in any event.

Thanks,

Al

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote -DRM- Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 October 2006 at 3:21am
I like the front hangers for building in a little lift, and for tying the stock frame together because it WILL eventually crack and fail.  But you can easily build your own in an afternoon if you want and still get the benefits without the cost.

BTW - put that stock push-pull box up on eBay and you will recoup $50-$100 of your cost... those thing sell quite well on there.
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Originally posted by bluetoy84 bluetoy84 wrote:

The main problems are unloading on a steep climb and axlewrap. I read all the writeups on how to build rears up front.



Unlaoding and wrap are generally due to lack of clamps, and not having a properly built pack as far as rate and leaf thickness.

And most people on Pirate and the like don't take the time to check rate on individual leaves, don't have enough packs on hand to build a good pack, and don't pay attention to clamping, leaf stagger, or ways to control axle wrap.

And rears up front are not all about flex - technically the moment arm is 2" shorter than most so there is a point of diminishing return when it comes to flex anyway.  On my latest build, the 2" axle forward position was combined with a 1.25" forward hanger to really move the front axle forward on the frame to keep the lift low and fit the larger tires without hacking up the body.  You just can't do that with off-the-shelf springs.

Don't get me wrong - if Marlin or AP would build a front spring that actually moves the axle forward (some of them claim it, but the numbers don't lie) then I'd consider buying a set.  Until then - I'll be building springs to suit my needs.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote alabamatoy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 October 2006 at 2:03am

Originally posted by -DRM- -DRM- wrote:

On my latest build, the 2" axle forward position was combined with a 1.25" forward hanger to really move the front axle forward on the frame to keep the lift low and fit the larger tires without hacking up the body.

This is the key issue for new springs - repositioning the axle/.  You cant go too far forward from a tire clearance perspective, but if you go far enough, the tie rood and pitman arm interfere w/ each other......unless you do other mods.

Mine are 5" allpros, and they have worked wonderful.  My only complaint is they are now sagging and too soft.  And this weekend, I apparently broke the spring pin and the leaves started coming out, nearly ruined a brand new tire, but I think I caught it in time.

"If you didnt buy your 1st gen 4Runner new, then YOU are a newbie!!"

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cj8lvr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 October 2006 at 2:12am

Originally posted by -DRM- -DRM- wrote:


I've also built packs using YJ springs and J truck (Wagoneer) springs as well.  I've gotten them all to work.

 

Al, If you do decide to go this route, I gave Kyle Beason the front springs out of that Cherokee Chief I parted out and I doubt he's gonna use them since he bought all new lift springs for all four corners.  They may work for you.  Probably the same or very similar to Wagoneer springs. You may want to check with him if he hasn't tossed them yet.

Alright, I'm now exiting Toyota world......

 

___/| [_\__\],
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote -DRM- Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 October 2006 at 3:01am
Al - get those Chief springs if you can.  As long as they are not the 3 leaf version, they should work well for you.

Cherokee, Wagoneer, and J truck front springs are all the same specs.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 October 2006 at 3:14am
Ive still got them and you can have my old front springs if i cant think of a
need for them. Just tell me if you want them.

Kyle
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Al Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 October 2006 at 10:14am

Originally posted by hardbody1 hardbody1 wrote:

Ive still got them and you can have my old front springs if i cant think of a
need for them. Just tell me if you want them.

Kyle

 

Kyle, Consider them wanted.  Thanks, Al

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Al Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 October 2006 at 8:23am
Ordered the high steer kit, u-bolt flip kit, and steering box mount from T-G today.  About $469 or so including $10 for a hat.

Thanks,

Al

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